How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?Why do shelves often fall during the night?How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?What kind of screws/bolts do I need to mount a heavy TV mount?Can I use lag bolts when mounting heavy shelf units through 2 layer drywall?How do I remove molding with out damaging the molding or the wall?How to get broken screw out of wall anchorNeed help mounting a TV to the wallHow to take out a screw on wallHow do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?Hanging large TV and media cabinet on cement block covered with drywallHow to support this shelf?

Is there an official reason for not adding a post-credits scene?

Understanding trademark infringements in a world where many dictionary words are trademarks?

Shutter speed -vs- effective image stabilisation

Pressure inside an infinite ocean?

Causes of bimodal distributions when bootstrapping a meta-analysis model

List of newcommands used

Will 700 more planes a day fly because of the Heathrow expansion?

SafeCracker #3 - We've Been Blocked

Introducing Gladys, an intrepid globetrotter

Something that can be activated/enabled

Where is the documentation for this ex command?

Do I add my skill check modifier to the roll of 15 granted by Glibness?

Wrong answer from DSolve when solving a differential equation

Decoupling cap routing on a 4 layer PCB

What does 'made on' mean here?

finding a solution for this recurrence relation

Word for Food that's Gone 'Bad', but is Still Edible?

Can you Ready a Bard spell to release it after using Battle Magic?

Floor of Riemann zeta function

Where in Bitcoin Core does it do X?

Has the Hulk always been able to talk?

How did the Venus Express detect lightning?

Adjacent DEM color matching in QGIS

Are there any of the Children of the Forest left, or are they extinct?



How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?


Why do shelves often fall during the night?How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?What kind of screws/bolts do I need to mount a heavy TV mount?Can I use lag bolts when mounting heavy shelf units through 2 layer drywall?How do I remove molding with out damaging the molding or the wall?How to get broken screw out of wall anchorNeed help mounting a TV to the wallHow to take out a screw on wallHow do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?Hanging large TV and media cabinet on cement block covered with drywallHow to support this shelf?






.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;








21















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question



















  • 3





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    Apr 25 at 4:04






  • 1





    I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:09






  • 7





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    Apr 25 at 8:22







  • 1





    If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    Apr 25 at 17:29






  • 1





    Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 17:30

















21















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question



















  • 3





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    Apr 25 at 4:04






  • 1





    I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:09






  • 7





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    Apr 25 at 8:22







  • 1





    If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    Apr 25 at 17:29






  • 1





    Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 17:30













21












21








21


2






I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question
















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole







mounting shelf






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Apr 25 at 14:23









Machavity

8,69022043




8,69022043










asked Apr 25 at 0:05









Jakob WeisblatJakob Weisblat

21726




21726







  • 3





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    Apr 25 at 4:04






  • 1





    I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:09






  • 7





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    Apr 25 at 8:22







  • 1





    If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    Apr 25 at 17:29






  • 1





    Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 17:30












  • 3





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    Apr 25 at 4:04






  • 1





    I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:09






  • 7





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    Apr 25 at 8:22







  • 1





    If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    Apr 25 at 17:29






  • 1





    Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 17:30







3




3





How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
Apr 25 at 4:04





How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
Apr 25 at 4:04




1




1





I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
Apr 25 at 4:09





I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
Apr 25 at 4:09




7




7





What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
Apr 25 at 8:22






What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
Apr 25 at 8:22





1




1





If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

– ShapeOfMatter
Apr 25 at 17:29





If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

– ShapeOfMatter
Apr 25 at 17:29




1




1





Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

– Jakob Weisblat
Apr 25 at 17:30





Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

– Jakob Weisblat
Apr 25 at 17:30










5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















54














It was installed incorrectly.



It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



Here's an example from NPA:



enter image description here



You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

    – FreeMan
    Apr 26 at 12:17






  • 1





    ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

    – FreeMan
    Apr 26 at 12:19







  • 2





    The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

    – Peter Green
    Apr 26 at 14:15











  • Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

    – Matthew Leingang
    Apr 26 at 16:16


















22














TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



Anchors



Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



Screws Into Studs



The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



  • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

  • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





share|improve this answer




















  • 4





    Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

    – Mark
    Apr 25 at 0:58











  • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:05






  • 4





    Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

    – Phil Frost
    Apr 25 at 14:27






  • 1





    The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

    – gerrit
    Apr 26 at 7:53







  • 1





    @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

    – manassehkatz
    Apr 28 at 1:21


















6














Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






share|improve this answer

























  • Whoa, these things are cool!

    – Jakob Weisblat
    Apr 25 at 4:07






  • 6





    Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

    – Martin Bonner
    Apr 25 at 11:54






  • 1





    This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

    – Owain
    Apr 25 at 13:01


















4














I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -



but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.



Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.



This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.






share|improve this answer








New contributor




Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.



























    1














    Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.



    If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:



    https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590



    If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:



    https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713



    Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.






    share|improve this answer








    New contributor




    BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.




















      Your Answer








      StackExchange.ready(function()
      var channelOptions =
      tags: "".split(" "),
      id: "73"
      ;
      initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

      StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
      // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
      if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
      StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
      createEditor();
      );

      else
      createEditor();

      );

      function createEditor()
      StackExchange.prepareEditor(
      heartbeatType: 'answer',
      autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
      convertImagesToLinks: false,
      noModals: true,
      showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
      reputationToPostImages: null,
      bindNavPrevention: true,
      postfix: "",
      imageUploader:
      brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
      contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
      allowUrls: true
      ,
      noCode: true, onDemand: true,
      discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
      ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
      );



      );













      draft saved

      draft discarded


















      StackExchange.ready(
      function ()
      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f163695%2fhow-do-i-reattach-a-shelf-to-the-wall-when-it-ripped-out-of-the-wall%23new-answer', 'question_page');

      );

      Post as a guest















      Required, but never shown

























      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes








      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      54














      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






      share|improve this answer


















      • 1





        Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:17






      • 1





        ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:19







      • 2





        The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

        – Peter Green
        Apr 26 at 14:15











      • Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

        – Matthew Leingang
        Apr 26 at 16:16















      54














      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






      share|improve this answer


















      • 1





        Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:17






      • 1





        ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:19







      • 2





        The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

        – Peter Green
        Apr 26 at 14:15











      • Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

        – Matthew Leingang
        Apr 26 at 16:16













      54












      54








      54







      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






      share|improve this answer













      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered Apr 25 at 12:47









      Phil FrostPhil Frost

      920712




      920712







      • 1





        Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:17






      • 1





        ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:19







      • 2





        The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

        – Peter Green
        Apr 26 at 14:15











      • Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

        – Matthew Leingang
        Apr 26 at 16:16












      • 1





        Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:17






      • 1





        ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

        – FreeMan
        Apr 26 at 12:19







      • 2





        The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

        – Peter Green
        Apr 26 at 14:15











      • Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

        – Matthew Leingang
        Apr 26 at 16:16







      1




      1





      Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

      – FreeMan
      Apr 26 at 12:17





      Without having read all the comment on all the other answers... how to fix: The screw is long enough, but you now have a hole in the stud that is too fat. Go to your local big-box hardware store (or locally owned independent store if possible), get a screw of the same length, but of larger diameter. You need one where the shank (not counting the threads) is the same diameter as the anchor around the screw you currently have. You can then gently tap the drywall flat, put the bracket back up to the existing hole and drive your fatter screw in that hole.

      – FreeMan
      Apr 26 at 12:17




      1




      1





      ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

      – FreeMan
      Apr 26 at 12:19






      ... The larger diameter screw will put its threads into the wood around the hole and should hold quite nicely. You could, of course, also move the mounting bracket up so the current hole is hidden by the bottom of the bracket and make a new hole for the existing screws. NB: REMOVE the screws from the anchors and toss the anchors in the bin! The pilot hole should be the diameter of the inner shank of the screw, excluding the threads. This will raise the shelf an inch or so and that may throw off your Fung Shoe (or whatever it's called:).

      – FreeMan
      Apr 26 at 12:19





      2




      2





      The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

      – Peter Green
      Apr 26 at 14:15





      The problem with using a large diameter screw is it probablly won't fit through the hole in the bracket.

      – Peter Green
      Apr 26 at 14:15













      Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

      – Matthew Leingang
      Apr 26 at 16:16





      Thank you for including that picture! I always wondered how it was supposed to work.

      – Matthew Leingang
      Apr 26 at 16:16













      22














      TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



      There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



      Anchors



      Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



      A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



      You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



      Screws Into Studs



      The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



      With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



      • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

      • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





      share|improve this answer




















      • 4





        Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

        – Mark
        Apr 25 at 0:58











      • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:05






      • 4





        Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

        – Phil Frost
        Apr 25 at 14:27






      • 1





        The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

        – gerrit
        Apr 26 at 7:53







      • 1





        @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

        – manassehkatz
        Apr 28 at 1:21















      22














      TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



      There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



      Anchors



      Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



      A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



      You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



      Screws Into Studs



      The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



      With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



      • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

      • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





      share|improve this answer




















      • 4





        Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

        – Mark
        Apr 25 at 0:58











      • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:05






      • 4





        Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

        – Phil Frost
        Apr 25 at 14:27






      • 1





        The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

        – gerrit
        Apr 26 at 7:53







      • 1





        @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

        – manassehkatz
        Apr 28 at 1:21













      22












      22








      22







      TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



      There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



      Anchors



      Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



      A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



      You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



      Screws Into Studs



      The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



      With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



      • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

      • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





      share|improve this answer















      TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



      There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



      Anchors



      Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



      A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



      You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



      Screws Into Studs



      The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



      With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



      • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

      • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.






      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited Apr 25 at 16:02

























      answered Apr 25 at 0:43









      manassehkatzmanassehkatz

      11.6k1542




      11.6k1542







      • 4





        Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

        – Mark
        Apr 25 at 0:58











      • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:05






      • 4





        Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

        – Phil Frost
        Apr 25 at 14:27






      • 1





        The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

        – gerrit
        Apr 26 at 7:53







      • 1





        @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

        – manassehkatz
        Apr 28 at 1:21












      • 4





        Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

        – Mark
        Apr 25 at 0:58











      • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:05






      • 4





        Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

        – Phil Frost
        Apr 25 at 14:27






      • 1





        The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

        – gerrit
        Apr 26 at 7:53







      • 1





        @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

        – manassehkatz
        Apr 28 at 1:21







      4




      4





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      Apr 25 at 0:58





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      Apr 25 at 0:58













      I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      Apr 25 at 4:05





      I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      Apr 25 at 4:05




      4




      4





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      Apr 25 at 14:27





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      Apr 25 at 14:27




      1




      1





      The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

      – gerrit
      Apr 26 at 7:53






      The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall., I've used anchors in masonry and concrete walls and ceilings, is this wrong? I hope my ceiling lamps won't come falling down...

      – gerrit
      Apr 26 at 7:53





      1




      1





      @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

      – manassehkatz
      Apr 28 at 1:21





      @gerrit There are anchors designed for masonry and concrete that are very effective. They are different from the ones designed for hollow walls.

      – manassehkatz
      Apr 28 at 1:21











      6














      Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



      Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
      That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



      Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






      share|improve this answer

























      • Whoa, these things are cool!

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:07






      • 6





        Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

        – Martin Bonner
        Apr 25 at 11:54






      • 1





        This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

        – Owain
        Apr 25 at 13:01















      6














      Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



      Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
      That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



      Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






      share|improve this answer

























      • Whoa, these things are cool!

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:07






      • 6





        Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

        – Martin Bonner
        Apr 25 at 11:54






      • 1





        This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

        – Owain
        Apr 25 at 13:01













      6












      6








      6







      Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



      Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
      That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



      Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






      share|improve this answer















      Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



      Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
      That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



      Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047







      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited Apr 25 at 4:06

























      answered Apr 25 at 3:28









      DaveMDaveM

      1,016416




      1,016416












      • Whoa, these things are cool!

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:07






      • 6





        Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

        – Martin Bonner
        Apr 25 at 11:54






      • 1





        This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

        – Owain
        Apr 25 at 13:01

















      • Whoa, these things are cool!

        – Jakob Weisblat
        Apr 25 at 4:07






      • 6





        Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

        – Martin Bonner
        Apr 25 at 11:54






      • 1





        This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

        – Owain
        Apr 25 at 13:01
















      Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      Apr 25 at 4:07





      Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      Apr 25 at 4:07




      6




      6





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      Apr 25 at 11:54





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      Apr 25 at 11:54




      1




      1





      This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      Apr 25 at 13:01





      This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      Apr 25 at 13:01











      4














      I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -



      but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.



      Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.



      This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.
























        4














        I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -



        but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.



        Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.



        This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.






        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.






















          4












          4








          4







          I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -



          but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.



          Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.



          This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.






          share|improve this answer








          New contributor




          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.










          I don't think I saw this point mentioned above -



          but if you did in fact drill a large, anchor sized hole into the stud, then there is one more way you could recover the hole and use it with wood screws - back fill it.



          Purchase a small wooden dowel of approximately the same size as the hole, use wood glue to securely attach it, and when the glue dries, screw a regular wood screw in.



          This is a trick used to repair guitar strap pins when the screw strips out of the guitar body, but for that we use toothpicks and wood glue as the diameter is very small. Toothpicks might work here, too.







          share|improve this answer








          New contributor




          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer






          New contributor




          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          answered Apr 26 at 14:40









          Jade SteffenJade Steffen

          411




          411




          New contributor




          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.





          New contributor





          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.






          Jade Steffen is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.





















              1














              Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.



              If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:



              https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590



              If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:



              https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713



              Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.






              share|improve this answer








              New contributor




              BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
              Check out our Code of Conduct.
























                1














                Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.



                If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:



                https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590



                If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:



                https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713



                Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.






                share|improve this answer








                New contributor




                BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                Check out our Code of Conduct.






















                  1












                  1








                  1







                  Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.



                  If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:



                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590



                  If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:



                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713



                  Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.






                  share|improve this answer








                  New contributor




                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.










                  Jade Steffen offered one solution (back-filling the stud) to rehanging, but I don't see much here to answer that part of your question.



                  If there are indeed wooden studs behind the holes, those holes are now far too big for any screw you can use with that shelf hanger. Luckily, E-Z Ancor makes a stud-compatible anchor called the "Stud Solver" that should be large enough to grip the stud firmly and provide you a compatible hole to screw into:



                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Stud-Solver-7-x-1-1-4-in-Alloy-Flat-Head-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-with-Screws-4-Pack-29503/100234590



                  If there is just drywall there, you'll want a stronger style of anchor like a toggle. You can get the old school style that are just a toggle anchor on a bolt, but I'm personally a fan of the newer strap toggles. I think they're easier to install, and they're extremely strong as drywall anchors go:



                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-1-4-in-x-2-1-2-in-Toggle-Straps-with-Screws-6-Pack-376260/202982713



                  Of course, the best choice might be to patch the holes and relocate the shelf a bit, hanging with screws directly into the studs or attaching a backing board to the studs and mounting the shelf to that. The details for that depend on your space and the aesthetics you're going for. If this is a rental, you might be best off to just patch it, paint it, and get a free-standing bookshelf instead.







                  share|improve this answer








                  New contributor




                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.









                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer






                  New contributor




                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.









                  answered Apr 26 at 15:40









                  BloodGainBloodGain

                  1113




                  1113




                  New contributor




                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.





                  New contributor





                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.






                  BloodGain is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                  Check out our Code of Conduct.



























                      draft saved

                      draft discarded
















































                      Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!


                      • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

                      But avoid


                      • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

                      • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.

                      To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




                      draft saved


                      draft discarded














                      StackExchange.ready(
                      function ()
                      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f163695%2fhow-do-i-reattach-a-shelf-to-the-wall-when-it-ripped-out-of-the-wall%23new-answer', 'question_page');

                      );

                      Post as a guest















                      Required, but never shown





















































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown

































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown







                      Popular posts from this blog

                      Wikipedia:Vital articles Мазмуну Biography - Өмүр баян Philosophy and psychology - Философия жана психология Religion - Дин Social sciences - Коомдук илимдер Language and literature - Тил жана адабият Science - Илим Technology - Технология Arts and recreation - Искусство жана эс алуу History and geography - Тарых жана география Навигация менюсу

                      Bruxelas-Capital Índice Historia | Composición | Situación lingüística | Clima | Cidades irmandadas | Notas | Véxase tamén | Menú de navegacióneO uso das linguas en Bruxelas e a situación do neerlandés"Rexión de Bruxelas Capital"o orixinalSitio da rexiónPáxina de Bruselas no sitio da Oficina de Promoción Turística de Valonia e BruxelasMapa Interactivo da Rexión de Bruxelas-CapitaleeWorldCat332144929079854441105155190212ID28008674080552-90000 0001 0666 3698n94104302ID540940339365017018237

                      What should I write in an apology letter, since I have decided not to join a company after accepting an offer letterShould I keep looking after accepting a job offer?What should I do when I've been verbally told I would get an offer letter, but still haven't gotten one after 4 weeks?Do I accept an offer from a company that I am not likely to join?New job hasn't confirmed starting date and I want to give current employer as much notice as possibleHow should I address my manager in my resignation letter?HR delayed background verification, now jobless as resignedNo email communication after accepting a formal written offer. How should I phrase the call?What should I do if after receiving a verbal offer letter I am informed that my written job offer is put on hold due to some internal issues?Should I inform the current employer that I am about to resign within 1-2 weeks since I have signed the offer letter and waiting for visa?What company will do, if I send their offer letter to another company