Prime joint compound before latex paint? The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are In Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar ManaraHow long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?Are there differences to drywall joint compound and plaster?I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primerJoint Compound was too dry, now whatWhat kind of joint compound over plywoodCan I prime/paint these walls?Accidentally Used Topping Compound for Taping Drywall Joint. What To Do?
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Prime joint compound before latex paint?
The 2019 Stack Overflow Developer Survey Results Are In
Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar ManaraHow long does setting-type joint compound have to dry before priming?how long should I let latex paint dry before installing outlet covers and other fixtures?Are there differences to drywall joint compound and plaster?I have to put a second coat of Sheetrock joint compound on a patch job, do I need to wet the first coat?Will joint compound / drywall mud clog my drain?Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primerJoint Compound was too dry, now whatWhat kind of joint compound over plywoodCan I prime/paint these walls?Accidentally Used Topping Compound for Taping Drywall Joint. What To Do?
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
add a comment |
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21
add a comment |
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
I'm painting a room that had previously been wallpapered. The walls are veneer plaster coated, so the paper was easy to remove and clean the plaster.
However there are patches for wiring, dings and other artifacts of sloppy plastering that I've covered with regular joint compound.
As I start painting (latex) I find that unless I'm really quick and wet across the compound, it starts to come up and ruin the finish.
Should I be spray priming? What do others do about this issue?
painting drywall-mud
painting drywall-mud
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
asked Apr 8 at 12:15
DaveMDaveM
924315
924315
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21
add a comment |
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
add a comment |
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
add a comment |
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
A primer is recommended for joint compound. Using a primer seals the mud and actually uses less paint with a even finish in the long run.
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
answered Apr 8 at 12:56
Ed BealEd Beal
34.8k12149
34.8k12149
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
add a comment |
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
4
4
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
The most significant benefit is more even sheen in the finished product.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:19
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
add a comment |
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
If you find you're doing a lot of patches, buy some "new drywall" primer. It's cheaper and helps you get the new compound ready for paint just as well (it's also latex). It generally is only available in gallons, though (with the assumption you've done a whole room in drywall)
If you're not doing a LOT of patches, consider using a better patch. Joint compound is different from vinyl spackle, and some types of spackle come pre-primed now.
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
answered Apr 8 at 15:10
MachavityMachavity
8,28821941
8,28821941
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
add a comment |
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
1
1
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
Commonly called PVA Primer, and it can be tinted (like any other primer) to match the paint color if you're using a color other than white.
– JPhi1618
Apr 8 at 15:20
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
So you are saying use spackle instead of mud?
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:26
1
1
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
@DaveM For smaller patches, yes. Spackle doesn't shrink and tends to be a bit stiffer, so it fills larger holes better. And 3M, for instance, makes a pre-primed spackle
– Machavity
Apr 8 at 15:33
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
add a comment |
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
Huh? Of course you will. Always.
Anytime you put topcoat paint on a surface that is inconsistent, it will show inconsistent results. The topcoat will react differently to different surfaces, leaving a different texture that will be noticeable.
That is the entire point of primer. You paint primer over the mixed surface, the primer seals it, and after 1-2 coats (possibly with some help from sanding or filler in between primer coats) you have a surface that is uniform (consistent/the same) - it's all dried primer. The topcoat applies evenly.
Primer also causes the color to be uniform, because otherwise, underlying different colors will print through (most architectural coatings are near-white, and white paint isn't that opaque).
Primer is optimized to do this. It's also cheaper. Paint can do this too, but it'll take ridiculous numbers of coats of it.
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
answered Apr 8 at 19:31
HarperHarper
76.4k449153
76.4k449153
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
add a comment |
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
Sanding a primer is not a concept I'm familiar with
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 23:02
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
@DaveM, primer can sometimes make issues worse, or it can react a little with the surface. To get a really even coverage, sanding rough or "odd" spots and reapplying primer can help the end coat.
– computercarguy
Apr 8 at 23:58
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
Thanks, understood, it also gums up my sandpaper.
– DaveM
Apr 9 at 0:12
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
@DaveM because you're sanding too soon. Wait for it to dry. Yes, applying primer can make a few surfaces bumpy, but, most likely paint would do the same thing. Primer "springs the trap" as it were, then freezes it so it won't do it anymore. At least that's the idea. Also, you often sand just because the surface was already rough and that becomes more visible once primer gives it a uniform appearance.
– Harper
Apr 9 at 0:43
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
add a comment |
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
It sounds like the joint compound was applied over a paste residue that is reactivating from the moisture in the paint.
It can be very near impossible to get all adhesive washed off of the surface.
That is why I always use a sealer before patching.
Best one I have used is Gardz by Zinnser. It creates a thin barrier coat that locks down containment’s on the surface. After it drys do your patching and sanding followed by spot priming of repairs with same product. –
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
answered Apr 8 at 13:51
KrisKris
1,0791611
1,0791611
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
add a comment |
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
I've seen that, but I'm pretty good about getting it clean. If I find a patch I missed, I immediately scrape off the wet paint and glue from the spot, and repaint.
– DaveM
Apr 8 at 15:25
add a comment |
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Good question. I always cover those spots with a brush first, as the rolling is when it comes up for me. The downside is that it can alter the texture of the finished wall.
– Evil Elf
Apr 8 at 12:37
@kris, answers go down there.
– isherwood
Apr 8 at 13:21