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Help decide course of action for rotting windows


Extra insulation for panes of aging windowsHow can I identify the manufacturer of my windows?How can I muffle street noise increase from triple-pane windows?Replacing vertical picture windowsWhat else can I use to clean glass windows?Is there a way to remove condensation and clean inside a double pane window?Can one pane of a double pane window be safely removed?Sound proof window arrangements with double windowsRestoring steel casement windowsRemoving horizontal muntins from 1950s split pane windows






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3















I have a 30 year old house in Chicago. We have original double pane wood windows. The interior portions are in good condition. No rotting and all the seals are good and there is NO fogging between the panes.



The issue I have is the sills and brick molding outside are rotting. We also have original Storm windows in wood frames, single pane, and the frames of the storm windows are rotting.



I plan to sell the house in 5 years. I was thinking to replace the entire windows, but that gets very costly. Would it be better to just replace the sills and brick molding? Will I be able to find replacements storm windows for the sizes I need?



I should mention that either course I would probably do the work myself. I am a fairly handy guy. I have built a shed, finished my basement, replaced a asphalt shingle roof, stuff like that.



Some advice here would be great, thank you










share|improve this question






















  • Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

    – einpoklum
    May 10 at 20:50












  • I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

    – Hot Licks
    May 10 at 22:37

















3















I have a 30 year old house in Chicago. We have original double pane wood windows. The interior portions are in good condition. No rotting and all the seals are good and there is NO fogging between the panes.



The issue I have is the sills and brick molding outside are rotting. We also have original Storm windows in wood frames, single pane, and the frames of the storm windows are rotting.



I plan to sell the house in 5 years. I was thinking to replace the entire windows, but that gets very costly. Would it be better to just replace the sills and brick molding? Will I be able to find replacements storm windows for the sizes I need?



I should mention that either course I would probably do the work myself. I am a fairly handy guy. I have built a shed, finished my basement, replaced a asphalt shingle roof, stuff like that.



Some advice here would be great, thank you










share|improve this question






















  • Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

    – einpoklum
    May 10 at 20:50












  • I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

    – Hot Licks
    May 10 at 22:37













3












3








3








I have a 30 year old house in Chicago. We have original double pane wood windows. The interior portions are in good condition. No rotting and all the seals are good and there is NO fogging between the panes.



The issue I have is the sills and brick molding outside are rotting. We also have original Storm windows in wood frames, single pane, and the frames of the storm windows are rotting.



I plan to sell the house in 5 years. I was thinking to replace the entire windows, but that gets very costly. Would it be better to just replace the sills and brick molding? Will I be able to find replacements storm windows for the sizes I need?



I should mention that either course I would probably do the work myself. I am a fairly handy guy. I have built a shed, finished my basement, replaced a asphalt shingle roof, stuff like that.



Some advice here would be great, thank you










share|improve this question














I have a 30 year old house in Chicago. We have original double pane wood windows. The interior portions are in good condition. No rotting and all the seals are good and there is NO fogging between the panes.



The issue I have is the sills and brick molding outside are rotting. We also have original Storm windows in wood frames, single pane, and the frames of the storm windows are rotting.



I plan to sell the house in 5 years. I was thinking to replace the entire windows, but that gets very costly. Would it be better to just replace the sills and brick molding? Will I be able to find replacements storm windows for the sizes I need?



I should mention that either course I would probably do the work myself. I am a fairly handy guy. I have built a shed, finished my basement, replaced a asphalt shingle roof, stuff like that.



Some advice here would be great, thank you







repair windows diy-vs-pro






share|improve this question













share|improve this question











share|improve this question




share|improve this question










asked May 10 at 14:22









yellowyellow

161




161












  • Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

    – einpoklum
    May 10 at 20:50












  • I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

    – Hot Licks
    May 10 at 22:37

















  • Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

    – einpoklum
    May 10 at 20:50












  • I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

    – Hot Licks
    May 10 at 22:37
















Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

– einpoklum
May 10 at 20:50






Hey, shouldn't you have posted this to stackoverflow.com? :-P

– einpoklum
May 10 at 20:50














I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

– Hot Licks
May 10 at 22:37





I replaced several pieces of exterior sill and molding on the windows of our 42-year-old house in Minnesota. Did not do it everywhere, but piecemeal here and there, using a MultiMaster to cleanly cut out sections to be replaced. Then glued the replacement pieces in place using one of those gloppy exterior glues. Replaced several sashes, as they were Andersen and it's easy to get exact replacements.

– Hot Licks
May 10 at 22:37










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















5














If your timeframe is inside 5 years, you probably can't make an economic argument for new windows.



Suggest you attack one (neither the worst nor the best) and see what is in there when you pick away at it. New storms are easy. Brick mould is easy. The sill might be a little harder, but patience is a virtue.



Depending on the level of rot, don't immediately rule out bondo and/or capping the sill in aluminum.



If you don't have one already, get an oscillating tool. It'll pay for itself in this kind of work. Battery powered is vastly better than corded in my opinion.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

    – JimmyJames
    May 10 at 18:58











  • Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    May 10 at 22:05






  • 1





    Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

    – R..
    May 10 at 23:42


















4














I just bought a 1940's home with original windows and some termite damage on the frames. We decided to replace the windows due to that damage. While original wood windows a very sturdy, by replacing them with decent Anderson windows, we will have better insulation and no issues with breaking pulley systems. Basically, for 12 windows it was about $3700 with us doing the labor. Not terribly expensive, but a good starting point for your project unless you have many more windows. Also, if you have rudimentary knowledge of repair work, its not too difficult to change out windows.






share|improve this answer























  • I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

    – MonkeyZeus
    May 10 at 18:45











  • Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

    – Kris
    May 11 at 18:14











  • Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

    – Grant Weller
    May 13 at 13:09











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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









5














If your timeframe is inside 5 years, you probably can't make an economic argument for new windows.



Suggest you attack one (neither the worst nor the best) and see what is in there when you pick away at it. New storms are easy. Brick mould is easy. The sill might be a little harder, but patience is a virtue.



Depending on the level of rot, don't immediately rule out bondo and/or capping the sill in aluminum.



If you don't have one already, get an oscillating tool. It'll pay for itself in this kind of work. Battery powered is vastly better than corded in my opinion.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

    – JimmyJames
    May 10 at 18:58











  • Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    May 10 at 22:05






  • 1





    Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

    – R..
    May 10 at 23:42















5














If your timeframe is inside 5 years, you probably can't make an economic argument for new windows.



Suggest you attack one (neither the worst nor the best) and see what is in there when you pick away at it. New storms are easy. Brick mould is easy. The sill might be a little harder, but patience is a virtue.



Depending on the level of rot, don't immediately rule out bondo and/or capping the sill in aluminum.



If you don't have one already, get an oscillating tool. It'll pay for itself in this kind of work. Battery powered is vastly better than corded in my opinion.






share|improve this answer


















  • 1





    Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

    – JimmyJames
    May 10 at 18:58











  • Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    May 10 at 22:05






  • 1





    Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

    – R..
    May 10 at 23:42













5












5








5







If your timeframe is inside 5 years, you probably can't make an economic argument for new windows.



Suggest you attack one (neither the worst nor the best) and see what is in there when you pick away at it. New storms are easy. Brick mould is easy. The sill might be a little harder, but patience is a virtue.



Depending on the level of rot, don't immediately rule out bondo and/or capping the sill in aluminum.



If you don't have one already, get an oscillating tool. It'll pay for itself in this kind of work. Battery powered is vastly better than corded in my opinion.






share|improve this answer













If your timeframe is inside 5 years, you probably can't make an economic argument for new windows.



Suggest you attack one (neither the worst nor the best) and see what is in there when you pick away at it. New storms are easy. Brick mould is easy. The sill might be a little harder, but patience is a virtue.



Depending on the level of rot, don't immediately rule out bondo and/or capping the sill in aluminum.



If you don't have one already, get an oscillating tool. It'll pay for itself in this kind of work. Battery powered is vastly better than corded in my opinion.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered May 10 at 16:15









Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate

9,54411326




9,54411326







  • 1





    Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

    – JimmyJames
    May 10 at 18:58











  • Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    May 10 at 22:05






  • 1





    Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

    – R..
    May 10 at 23:42












  • 1





    Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

    – JimmyJames
    May 10 at 18:58











  • Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    May 10 at 22:05






  • 1





    Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

    – R..
    May 10 at 23:42







1




1





Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

– JimmyJames
May 10 at 18:58





Bondo isn't the right thing for patching wood. It's too hard. There are specialized products that are made for exterior wood patching.

– JimmyJames
May 10 at 18:58













Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

– Aloysius Defenestrate
May 10 at 22:05





Agree with @JimmyJames that bondo isn't the universal solution. It has its place, and if you excavate, back cut aggressively and partly sink a few screws for it to tie into, you'll have a better result.

– Aloysius Defenestrate
May 10 at 22:05




1




1





Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

– R..
May 10 at 23:42





Wood fill, not Bondo, and first you need to apply chemicals to treat/stop the rot.

– R..
May 10 at 23:42













4














I just bought a 1940's home with original windows and some termite damage on the frames. We decided to replace the windows due to that damage. While original wood windows a very sturdy, by replacing them with decent Anderson windows, we will have better insulation and no issues with breaking pulley systems. Basically, for 12 windows it was about $3700 with us doing the labor. Not terribly expensive, but a good starting point for your project unless you have many more windows. Also, if you have rudimentary knowledge of repair work, its not too difficult to change out windows.






share|improve this answer























  • I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

    – MonkeyZeus
    May 10 at 18:45











  • Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

    – Kris
    May 11 at 18:14











  • Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

    – Grant Weller
    May 13 at 13:09















4














I just bought a 1940's home with original windows and some termite damage on the frames. We decided to replace the windows due to that damage. While original wood windows a very sturdy, by replacing them with decent Anderson windows, we will have better insulation and no issues with breaking pulley systems. Basically, for 12 windows it was about $3700 with us doing the labor. Not terribly expensive, but a good starting point for your project unless you have many more windows. Also, if you have rudimentary knowledge of repair work, its not too difficult to change out windows.






share|improve this answer























  • I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

    – MonkeyZeus
    May 10 at 18:45











  • Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

    – Kris
    May 11 at 18:14











  • Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

    – Grant Weller
    May 13 at 13:09













4












4








4







I just bought a 1940's home with original windows and some termite damage on the frames. We decided to replace the windows due to that damage. While original wood windows a very sturdy, by replacing them with decent Anderson windows, we will have better insulation and no issues with breaking pulley systems. Basically, for 12 windows it was about $3700 with us doing the labor. Not terribly expensive, but a good starting point for your project unless you have many more windows. Also, if you have rudimentary knowledge of repair work, its not too difficult to change out windows.






share|improve this answer













I just bought a 1940's home with original windows and some termite damage on the frames. We decided to replace the windows due to that damage. While original wood windows a very sturdy, by replacing them with decent Anderson windows, we will have better insulation and no issues with breaking pulley systems. Basically, for 12 windows it was about $3700 with us doing the labor. Not terribly expensive, but a good starting point for your project unless you have many more windows. Also, if you have rudimentary knowledge of repair work, its not too difficult to change out windows.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered May 10 at 14:58









Grant WellerGrant Weller

463




463












  • I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

    – MonkeyZeus
    May 10 at 18:45











  • Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

    – Kris
    May 11 at 18:14











  • Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

    – Grant Weller
    May 13 at 13:09

















  • I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

    – MonkeyZeus
    May 10 at 18:45











  • Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

    – Kris
    May 11 at 18:14











  • Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

    – Grant Weller
    May 13 at 13:09
















I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

– MonkeyZeus
May 10 at 18:45





I am envious of your window count. I am in the same situation with a 1940 house with about 30 windows...

– MonkeyZeus
May 10 at 18:45













Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

– Kris
May 11 at 18:14





Window count and window size can drive this cost way up. What window did you settle on? And what size were they?

– Kris
May 11 at 18:14













Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

– Grant Weller
May 13 at 13:09





Anderson 100 series single hung. 3'x4' for the most part. one or two smaller ones in kitchen.

– Grant Weller
May 13 at 13:09

















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Club Baloncesto Breogán Índice Historia | Pavillón | Nome | O Breogán na cultura popular | Xogadores | Adestradores | Presidentes | Palmarés | Historial | Líderes | Notas | Véxase tamén | Menú de navegacióncbbreogan.galCadroGuía oficial da ACB 2009-10, páxina 201Guía oficial ACB 1992, páxina 183. Editorial DB.É de 6.500 espectadores sentados axeitándose á última normativa"Estudiantes Junior, entre as mellores canteiras"o orixinalHemeroteca El Mundo Deportivo, 16 setembro de 1970, páxina 12Historia do BreogánAlfredo Pérez, o último canoneiroHistoria C.B. BreogánHemeroteca de El Mundo DeportivoJimmy Wright, norteamericano do Breogán deixará Lugo por ameazas de morteResultados de Breogán en 1986-87Resultados de Breogán en 1990-91Ficha de Velimir Perasović en acb.comResultados de Breogán en 1994-95Breogán arrasa al Barça. "El Mundo Deportivo", 27 de setembro de 1999, páxina 58CB Breogán - FC BarcelonaA FEB invita a participar nunha nova Liga EuropeaCharlie Bell na prensa estatalMáximos anotadores 2005Tempada 2005-06 : Tódolos Xogadores da Xornada""Non quero pensar nunha man negra, mais pregúntome que está a pasar""o orixinalRaúl López, orgulloso dos xogadores, presume da boa saúde económica do BreogánJulio González confirma que cesa como presidente del BreogánHomenaxe a Lisardo GómezA tempada do rexurdimento celesteEntrevista a Lisardo GómezEl COB dinamita el Pazo para forzar el quinto (69-73)Cafés Candelas, patrocinador del CB Breogán"Suso Lázare, novo presidente do Breogán"o orixinalCafés Candelas Breogán firma el mayor triunfo de la historiaEl Breogán realizará 17 homenajes por su cincuenta aniversario"O Breogán honra ao seu fundador e primeiro presidente"o orixinalMiguel Giao recibiu a homenaxe do PazoHomenaxe aos primeiros gladiadores celestesO home que nos amosa como ver o Breo co corazónTita Franco será homenaxeada polos #50anosdeBreoJulio Vila recibirá unha homenaxe in memoriam polos #50anosdeBreo"O Breogán homenaxeará aos seus aboados máis veteráns"Pechada ovación a «Capi» Sanmartín e Ricardo «Corazón de González»Homenaxe por décadas de informaciónPaco García volve ao Pazo con motivo do 50 aniversario"Resultados y clasificaciones""O Cafés Candelas Breogán, campión da Copa Princesa""O Cafés Candelas Breogán, equipo ACB"C.B. Breogán"Proxecto social"o orixinal"Centros asociados"o orixinalFicha en imdb.comMario Camus trata la recuperación del amor en 'La vieja música', su última película"Páxina web oficial""Club Baloncesto Breogán""C. B. Breogán S.A.D."eehttp://www.fegaba.com

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Cegueira Índice Epidemioloxía | Deficiencia visual | Tipos de cegueira | Principais causas de cegueira | Tratamento | Técnicas de adaptación e axudas | Vida dos cegos | Primeiros auxilios | Crenzas respecto das persoas cegas | Crenzas das persoas cegas | O neno deficiente visual | Aspectos psicolóxicos da cegueira | Notas | Véxase tamén | Menú de navegación54.054.154.436928256blindnessDicionario da Real Academia GalegaPortal das Palabras"International Standards: Visual Standards — Aspects and Ranges of Vision Loss with Emphasis on Population Surveys.""Visual impairment and blindness""Presentan un plan para previr a cegueira"o orixinalACCDV Associació Catalana de Cecs i Disminuïts Visuals - PMFTrachoma"Effect of gene therapy on visual function in Leber's congenital amaurosis"1844137110.1056/NEJMoa0802268Cans guía - os mellores amigos dos cegosArquivadoEscola de cans guía para cegos en Mortágua, PortugalArquivado"Tecnología para ciegos y deficientes visuales. Recopilación de recursos gratuitos en la Red""Colorino""‘COL.diesis’, escuchar los sonidos del color""COL.diesis: Transforming Colour into Melody and Implementing the Result in a Colour Sensor Device"o orixinal"Sistema de desarrollo de sinestesia color-sonido para invidentes utilizando un protocolo de audio""Enseñanza táctil - geometría y color. Juegos didácticos para niños ciegos y videntes""Sistema Constanz"L'ocupació laboral dels cecs a l'Estat espanyol està pràcticament equiparada a la de les persones amb visió, entrevista amb Pedro ZuritaONCE (Organización Nacional de Cegos de España)Prevención da cegueiraDescrición de deficiencias visuais (Disc@pnet)Braillín, un boneco atractivo para calquera neno, con ou sen discapacidade, que permite familiarizarse co sistema de escritura e lectura brailleAxudas Técnicas36838ID00897494007150-90057129528256DOID:1432HP:0000618D001766C10.597.751.941.162C97109C0155020