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How to fix a gap in plywood screwed joint
How do I seal plywood joints effectively for outdoor use?Why is plywood often undersized?How can I bend plywood?How to make dish drainer board from plywood shelfHow do I fix one piece of plywood subfloor is 1.5mm higher than it's neighbor?“T-slot joint” or “cam nut”- style plywood to the wall connectionIs Marine Grade Plywood the same as Baltic Birch Plywood?Joint types for very thin plywoodPlywood sealer paint coatedHow to fix a bent piece of pine plywood?
I've knocked together some plywood to make a shoe rack and I've messed up the cuts.
There's a gap that I thought I could live with but I'd like to try and fix if possible.
Notice the slight bulge?
I thought I might get away with using clamps to pull it together but I'm worried I'll end up ripping the screws out when I release the clamps.
Short of replacing the top shelf or shortening the middle and bottom shelves, which I'd rather not do, is there something else I could try?
plywood
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
add a comment |
I've knocked together some plywood to make a shoe rack and I've messed up the cuts.
There's a gap that I thought I could live with but I'd like to try and fix if possible.
Notice the slight bulge?
I thought I might get away with using clamps to pull it together but I'm worried I'll end up ripping the screws out when I release the clamps.
Short of replacing the top shelf or shortening the middle and bottom shelves, which I'd rather not do, is there something else I could try?
plywood
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
2
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01
add a comment |
I've knocked together some plywood to make a shoe rack and I've messed up the cuts.
There's a gap that I thought I could live with but I'd like to try and fix if possible.
Notice the slight bulge?
I thought I might get away with using clamps to pull it together but I'm worried I'll end up ripping the screws out when I release the clamps.
Short of replacing the top shelf or shortening the middle and bottom shelves, which I'd rather not do, is there something else I could try?
plywood
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
I've knocked together some plywood to make a shoe rack and I've messed up the cuts.
There's a gap that I thought I could live with but I'd like to try and fix if possible.
Notice the slight bulge?
I thought I might get away with using clamps to pull it together but I'm worried I'll end up ripping the screws out when I release the clamps.
Short of replacing the top shelf or shortening the middle and bottom shelves, which I'd rather not do, is there something else I could try?
plywood
plywood
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
asked May 14 at 10:04
Adrian LynchAdrian Lynch
1161
1161
Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
2
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01
add a comment |
Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
2
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01
Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
2
2
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood.
The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense?
You might be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered.
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two. Period.
You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).
A. Shorten the other two to match.
B. Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you dont have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot...two or three layers should do it by the look of things.
C. Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look...not ok.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap sand the joint and if you need use wood filler.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually).
Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match.
Screw back in place and keep it movin.
I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and "pulling it in" may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.
JMHO.
Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
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Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood.
The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense?
You might be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered.
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood.
The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense?
You might be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered.
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood.
The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense?
You might be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered.
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
This looks like a problem commonly encountered when the clearance hole in the first board (the one on the outside of the joint - in your case the vertical piece) is not wide enough. This hole should be at least as wide as the widest part of the screw threads. The true pilot hole in the second piece should be sized appropriately for the screw and type of wood.
The screw basically should not be grabbing into the first piece - the head of the screw should simply apply force sideways (in this case). All the grabbing should be to pull your horizontal piece against the vertical piece. Does that make sense?
You might be able to solve this problem by backing out the screws, clamping the pieces together tightly, and rescrewing. Otherwise, you'll have to widen the holes in the vertical piece somewhat. Be careful when you do this to keep the holes approximately centered.
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
answered May 14 at 12:23
aaronaaron
2,253412
2,253412
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
3
3
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
An alternative solution is to use a traditional screw with an unthreaded section that is as long as the vertical plywood is thick. That way the screw is unable to hold into the vertical, and will just pull it in.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:58
2
2
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
Note that keeping the holes centred is very unlikely to be a problem. If you use an ordinary twist bit, it will naturally centre itself in my experience.
– Martin Bonner
May 14 at 13:59
1
1
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
It's also worth mentioning that with a tapered countersink bit you can simultaneously drill the pilot hole, clearance hole, and countersink.
– SaSSafraS1232
May 14 at 22:18
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
I think this is the best answer, but I'd like the OP to show us the fasteners used, as fully threaded screws would also demonstrate this problem. Your discussion of pilot holes still applies in this case.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two. Period.
You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).
A. Shorten the other two to match.
B. Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you dont have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot...two or three layers should do it by the look of things.
C. Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look...not ok.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two. Period.
You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).
A. Shorten the other two to match.
B. Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you dont have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot...two or three layers should do it by the look of things.
C. Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look...not ok.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two. Period.
You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).
A. Shorten the other two to match.
B. Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you dont have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot...two or three layers should do it by the look of things.
C. Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look...not ok.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
The issue is that the top shelf is shorter than the other two. Period.
You have three choices (four if you count do nothing).
A. Shorten the other two to match.
B. Widen the top shelf with a shim cut to match the gap. If you dont have access to a saw that can cut that fine, go buy some veneer banding from Home Depot...two or three layers should do it by the look of things.
C. Get some thin washers to stack on the screws between the boards. Structurally ok but will look...not ok.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
answered May 21 at 13:20
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
2
2
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
Your first sentence might be the problem - but I doubt it. Anyway, plywood that thick can easily bend to accommodate a couple of mm - and such a bend would be completely invisible to the eye.
– Martin Bonner
2 days ago
1
1
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
@MartinBonner this is exactly what I've been thinking. The problem looks more like the wrong fasteners pulling the faces apart. With real wood screws and any decent screwgun that plywood would be made to fit.
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap sand the joint and if you need use wood filler.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
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1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap sand the joint and if you need use wood filler.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap sand the joint and if you need use wood filler.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap sand the joint and if you need use wood filler.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
answered 2 days ago
MikeMike
1
1
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Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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New contributor
Mike is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
1
1
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
Cutting plywood to these dimensions is going to be hard. Anyway, someone already answered that this could be shimmed, along with a method for doing so. Maybe you can expand on this Answer to make it more useful for the OP and others?
– jdv
2 days ago
add a comment |
Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually).
Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match.
Screw back in place and keep it movin.
I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and "pulling it in" may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.
JMHO.
Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
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add a comment |
Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually).
Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match.
Screw back in place and keep it movin.
I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and "pulling it in" may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.
JMHO.
Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
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Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually).
Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match.
Screw back in place and keep it movin.
I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and "pulling it in" may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.
JMHO.
Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Edge banding is nothing more than veneer sold in strips 1 or 2 in wide, preglued (usually).
Unscrew the offending shelf and layer one, two or three strips of banding over each other on the end until you get a snug fit between the uprights. Trim the excess with a sharp utility knife and use some leftover stain to match.
Screw back in place and keep it movin.
I'm sure that using a more aggressive screw and "pulling it in" may work.....for a while. The problem is that plywood only has good strength for fastener holding through the plys....not within (latitudinally). Building tension (stress) into a piece usually ends with that stress self-relieving in the weakest spot in wood.
JMHO.
Also....if you look carefully in your third photo....you can see that the middle or front screw is already pushing up some of the plys on the shelf...using a more aggressive screw is going to make that worse and possibly tear out a chunk of shelf. Ask me how I know....
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
answered yesterday
AtcfurnitureserviceAtcfurnitureservice
212
212
New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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New contributor
Atcfurnitureservice is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
add a comment |
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Can you provide details of how it's put together please? If it's only the screws holding this together then the simplest and fastest fix I think will work out to be the very thing you say you'd rather not do :-) Re. the bulging, did you drill pilot holes before sinking in the screws?
– Graphus
May 14 at 12:22
This looks like you did not use wood screws, and/or did not completely give what wood screws need to get a nice tight fit (i.e., pilot holes and countersinking). Can you show the fasteners?
– jdv
May 14 at 15:21
2
Also, I know this is a Q about a specific problem, but someone ought to tell you that this box is going to become more of a trapezoid over time. Screws just aren't good at handling racking forces. Some sort of supports in the corners or cross-bracing should be used to keep it from racking.Take a look how Ikea, et al, design their stuff. Often there is a strip of material across the top-back that braces at least two corners. Often this is duplicated at the bottom.
– jdv
May 14 at 16:01