How long do XTOL and D-76 last unmixed?How long does undeveloped film last?Can leaving a print in fixer too long cause damage/staining?How to determine date photo shot or developed from pre-digital age pictures?How do I develop black and white film myself?How long will exposed film retain some latent image?Is stop bath necessary for black and white prints?What are the differences between D-76 and Xtol?How long does stock liquid developer last?How long do developed negatives last?Weird artifacts when using Tmax 100 for black-and-white reversal processing
Determining fair price for profitable mobile app business
Is it possible to fly backward if you have a 'really strong' headwind?
Meaning of 'lose their grip on the groins of their followers'
Is it possible for a vehicle to be manufactured without a catalytic converter?
Generate basis elements of the Steenrod algebra
Check if three arrays contains the same element
Live action TV show where High school Kids go into the virtual world and have to clear levels
Why does Sin[b-a] simplify to -Sin[a-b]?
A word that means "blending into a community too much"
How does the Around command at zero work?
Why does the Mishnah use the terms poor person and homeowner when discussing carrying on Shabbat?
Is using 'echo' to display attacker-controlled data on the terminal dangerous?
How to trick the reader into thinking they're following a redshirt instead of the protagonist?
Why does logistic function use e rather than 2?
How to handle (one's own) self-harm scars (on the arm), in a work environment?
Artificer Creativity
Teaching a class likely meant to inflate the GPA of student athletes
Traversing Oceania: A Cryptic Journey
Warning about needing "authorization" when booking ticket
Cascading Switches. Will it affect performance?
60s or 70s novel about Empire of Man making 1st contact with 1st discovered alien race
Extreme flexible working hours: how to get to know people and activities?
Someone whose aspirations exceed abilities or means
CSV how to trim values to 2 places in multiple columns using UNIX
How long do XTOL and D-76 last unmixed?
How long does undeveloped film last?Can leaving a print in fixer too long cause damage/staining?How to determine date photo shot or developed from pre-digital age pictures?How do I develop black and white film myself?How long will exposed film retain some latent image?Is stop bath necessary for black and white prints?What are the differences between D-76 and Xtol?How long does stock liquid developer last?How long do developed negatives last?Weird artifacts when using Tmax 100 for black-and-white reversal processing
.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;
When I bought my darkroom sets, I additionally acquired two powder developers, being XTOL and D-76.
I have only ever used Rodinal (Adonal) to develop my negatives, so I know little of how well such powder developers last stored unmixed.
I don't know of any production or expiration dates, but they are sealed in their original boxes and thus have never been mixed, and have been stored in the dark. Some of the paper I got together with the developer came from the 80s, but since the packages don't look all too old and worn I doubt the developers are that old. It is likely to be at least five years old.
Could I still use the powders? And if so, would there be any loss in quality?
film developing storage darkroom chemicals
add a comment |
When I bought my darkroom sets, I additionally acquired two powder developers, being XTOL and D-76.
I have only ever used Rodinal (Adonal) to develop my negatives, so I know little of how well such powder developers last stored unmixed.
I don't know of any production or expiration dates, but they are sealed in their original boxes and thus have never been mixed, and have been stored in the dark. Some of the paper I got together with the developer came from the 80s, but since the packages don't look all too old and worn I doubt the developers are that old. It is likely to be at least five years old.
Could I still use the powders? And if so, would there be any loss in quality?
film developing storage darkroom chemicals
add a comment |
When I bought my darkroom sets, I additionally acquired two powder developers, being XTOL and D-76.
I have only ever used Rodinal (Adonal) to develop my negatives, so I know little of how well such powder developers last stored unmixed.
I don't know of any production or expiration dates, but they are sealed in their original boxes and thus have never been mixed, and have been stored in the dark. Some of the paper I got together with the developer came from the 80s, but since the packages don't look all too old and worn I doubt the developers are that old. It is likely to be at least five years old.
Could I still use the powders? And if so, would there be any loss in quality?
film developing storage darkroom chemicals
When I bought my darkroom sets, I additionally acquired two powder developers, being XTOL and D-76.
I have only ever used Rodinal (Adonal) to develop my negatives, so I know little of how well such powder developers last stored unmixed.
I don't know of any production or expiration dates, but they are sealed in their original boxes and thus have never been mixed, and have been stored in the dark. Some of the paper I got together with the developer came from the 80s, but since the packages don't look all too old and worn I doubt the developers are that old. It is likely to be at least five years old.
Could I still use the powders? And if so, would there be any loss in quality?
film developing storage darkroom chemicals
film developing storage darkroom chemicals
asked May 23 at 12:39
timvrhntimvrhn
806214
806214
add a comment |
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
This is almost purely anecdotal, but... I recently (3/2019) bought a bag of XTOL which has the following markings:
© 2016 Kodak Alaris Inc.
EXP: 2021-05
From this I gather that Kodak gives a shelf life of 2–5 years for unmixed, unopened XTOL. (Not sure whether the copyright statement indicates year of manufacture or something else.)
However, word on the Internet is that you may expect much longer lives from powders that have been properly stored. Cans/jars are reputed to be less porous than bags, leading to increased shelf life.
In practical terms, I'd
- Open the bags/cans and inspect the contents; if the powder is white (not brown) and dry, proceed to next step.
- Mix it up and develop a test film.
- Only proceed to develop important stuff once you're satisfied that the developer still works.
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
add a comment |
The unmixed powders, such as XTOL or D-76, in their original sealed packaging can be expected to last several years.
However, with age does come increased risks of issues.
If the powder remains as fine grains and pours smoothly, then that is a good sign that there were no issues in storage.
If it is clumpy, has uneven texture or colours, then treat with very high suspicions.
Powders you suspect are more than a few years old should likely be tested before use with rolls of film you deem important.
Extremely important rolls should probably always be processed in chemistry you've very recently tested with less important rolls. Film and chemistry is cheap, once in a lifetime shots aren't.
- The older tins of developer are typically considered totally shelf stable if they're not damaged, and are potentially good for decades.
- The newer foil packets are apparently more prone to spoilage, and may quietly fail after only a few years with poor visual indication.
- Stock solution made from older powders can fail faster than normal due to being more oxidized than expected. In general it is good to avoid letting mixed stock solution sit too long, but aim to use up older chemistry sooner rather than later.
In general it is good to treat all chemistry with some suspicion and care, and increase your suspicions as it ages.
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function()
var channelOptions =
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "61"
;
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function()
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled)
StackExchange.using("snippets", function()
createEditor();
);
else
createEditor();
);
function createEditor()
StackExchange.prepareEditor(
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader:
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
,
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
);
);
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f108438%2fhow-long-do-xtol-and-d-76-last-unmixed%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
This is almost purely anecdotal, but... I recently (3/2019) bought a bag of XTOL which has the following markings:
© 2016 Kodak Alaris Inc.
EXP: 2021-05
From this I gather that Kodak gives a shelf life of 2–5 years for unmixed, unopened XTOL. (Not sure whether the copyright statement indicates year of manufacture or something else.)
However, word on the Internet is that you may expect much longer lives from powders that have been properly stored. Cans/jars are reputed to be less porous than bags, leading to increased shelf life.
In practical terms, I'd
- Open the bags/cans and inspect the contents; if the powder is white (not brown) and dry, proceed to next step.
- Mix it up and develop a test film.
- Only proceed to develop important stuff once you're satisfied that the developer still works.
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
add a comment |
This is almost purely anecdotal, but... I recently (3/2019) bought a bag of XTOL which has the following markings:
© 2016 Kodak Alaris Inc.
EXP: 2021-05
From this I gather that Kodak gives a shelf life of 2–5 years for unmixed, unopened XTOL. (Not sure whether the copyright statement indicates year of manufacture or something else.)
However, word on the Internet is that you may expect much longer lives from powders that have been properly stored. Cans/jars are reputed to be less porous than bags, leading to increased shelf life.
In practical terms, I'd
- Open the bags/cans and inspect the contents; if the powder is white (not brown) and dry, proceed to next step.
- Mix it up and develop a test film.
- Only proceed to develop important stuff once you're satisfied that the developer still works.
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
add a comment |
This is almost purely anecdotal, but... I recently (3/2019) bought a bag of XTOL which has the following markings:
© 2016 Kodak Alaris Inc.
EXP: 2021-05
From this I gather that Kodak gives a shelf life of 2–5 years for unmixed, unopened XTOL. (Not sure whether the copyright statement indicates year of manufacture or something else.)
However, word on the Internet is that you may expect much longer lives from powders that have been properly stored. Cans/jars are reputed to be less porous than bags, leading to increased shelf life.
In practical terms, I'd
- Open the bags/cans and inspect the contents; if the powder is white (not brown) and dry, proceed to next step.
- Mix it up and develop a test film.
- Only proceed to develop important stuff once you're satisfied that the developer still works.
This is almost purely anecdotal, but... I recently (3/2019) bought a bag of XTOL which has the following markings:
© 2016 Kodak Alaris Inc.
EXP: 2021-05
From this I gather that Kodak gives a shelf life of 2–5 years for unmixed, unopened XTOL. (Not sure whether the copyright statement indicates year of manufacture or something else.)
However, word on the Internet is that you may expect much longer lives from powders that have been properly stored. Cans/jars are reputed to be less porous than bags, leading to increased shelf life.
In practical terms, I'd
- Open the bags/cans and inspect the contents; if the powder is white (not brown) and dry, proceed to next step.
- Mix it up and develop a test film.
- Only proceed to develop important stuff once you're satisfied that the developer still works.
answered May 23 at 15:57
KahoviusKahovius
520110
520110
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
add a comment |
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
Thanks! First step may as well be directed at buyers inspecting their sellers' coke. ;)
– timvrhn
May 23 at 17:30
add a comment |
The unmixed powders, such as XTOL or D-76, in their original sealed packaging can be expected to last several years.
However, with age does come increased risks of issues.
If the powder remains as fine grains and pours smoothly, then that is a good sign that there were no issues in storage.
If it is clumpy, has uneven texture or colours, then treat with very high suspicions.
Powders you suspect are more than a few years old should likely be tested before use with rolls of film you deem important.
Extremely important rolls should probably always be processed in chemistry you've very recently tested with less important rolls. Film and chemistry is cheap, once in a lifetime shots aren't.
- The older tins of developer are typically considered totally shelf stable if they're not damaged, and are potentially good for decades.
- The newer foil packets are apparently more prone to spoilage, and may quietly fail after only a few years with poor visual indication.
- Stock solution made from older powders can fail faster than normal due to being more oxidized than expected. In general it is good to avoid letting mixed stock solution sit too long, but aim to use up older chemistry sooner rather than later.
In general it is good to treat all chemistry with some suspicion and care, and increase your suspicions as it ages.
add a comment |
The unmixed powders, such as XTOL or D-76, in their original sealed packaging can be expected to last several years.
However, with age does come increased risks of issues.
If the powder remains as fine grains and pours smoothly, then that is a good sign that there were no issues in storage.
If it is clumpy, has uneven texture or colours, then treat with very high suspicions.
Powders you suspect are more than a few years old should likely be tested before use with rolls of film you deem important.
Extremely important rolls should probably always be processed in chemistry you've very recently tested with less important rolls. Film and chemistry is cheap, once in a lifetime shots aren't.
- The older tins of developer are typically considered totally shelf stable if they're not damaged, and are potentially good for decades.
- The newer foil packets are apparently more prone to spoilage, and may quietly fail after only a few years with poor visual indication.
- Stock solution made from older powders can fail faster than normal due to being more oxidized than expected. In general it is good to avoid letting mixed stock solution sit too long, but aim to use up older chemistry sooner rather than later.
In general it is good to treat all chemistry with some suspicion and care, and increase your suspicions as it ages.
add a comment |
The unmixed powders, such as XTOL or D-76, in their original sealed packaging can be expected to last several years.
However, with age does come increased risks of issues.
If the powder remains as fine grains and pours smoothly, then that is a good sign that there were no issues in storage.
If it is clumpy, has uneven texture or colours, then treat with very high suspicions.
Powders you suspect are more than a few years old should likely be tested before use with rolls of film you deem important.
Extremely important rolls should probably always be processed in chemistry you've very recently tested with less important rolls. Film and chemistry is cheap, once in a lifetime shots aren't.
- The older tins of developer are typically considered totally shelf stable if they're not damaged, and are potentially good for decades.
- The newer foil packets are apparently more prone to spoilage, and may quietly fail after only a few years with poor visual indication.
- Stock solution made from older powders can fail faster than normal due to being more oxidized than expected. In general it is good to avoid letting mixed stock solution sit too long, but aim to use up older chemistry sooner rather than later.
In general it is good to treat all chemistry with some suspicion and care, and increase your suspicions as it ages.
The unmixed powders, such as XTOL or D-76, in their original sealed packaging can be expected to last several years.
However, with age does come increased risks of issues.
If the powder remains as fine grains and pours smoothly, then that is a good sign that there were no issues in storage.
If it is clumpy, has uneven texture or colours, then treat with very high suspicions.
Powders you suspect are more than a few years old should likely be tested before use with rolls of film you deem important.
Extremely important rolls should probably always be processed in chemistry you've very recently tested with less important rolls. Film and chemistry is cheap, once in a lifetime shots aren't.
- The older tins of developer are typically considered totally shelf stable if they're not damaged, and are potentially good for decades.
- The newer foil packets are apparently more prone to spoilage, and may quietly fail after only a few years with poor visual indication.
- Stock solution made from older powders can fail faster than normal due to being more oxidized than expected. In general it is good to avoid letting mixed stock solution sit too long, but aim to use up older chemistry sooner rather than later.
In general it is good to treat all chemistry with some suspicion and care, and increase your suspicions as it ages.
answered May 23 at 16:05
TheLucklessTheLuckless
1,54327
1,54327
add a comment |
add a comment |
Thanks for contributing an answer to Photography Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function ()
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fphoto.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f108438%2fhow-long-do-xtol-and-d-76-last-unmixed%23new-answer', 'question_page');
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function ()
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
);
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown