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Requirement for splicing neutrals in a switch
How should this circuit be properly grounded?Install recessed lights and chandelier with 3-way switchesAdjacent room light switch causing LED lights to display tiny bit of lightBuzzing sound from junction box when dimmer switch is onDouble check cable and conductor type selection for remote panelIs there a minimum height regulation for emt conduit in a garage?Trouble with End of Run SwitchHow can I wire 3 Lutron Caseta dimmer switches in bathroom?Strange 4 Way SwitchBasement lighting four rooms
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I am going to install 4 LED downlights on a 3-way switch. My plan is to do panel-switch-switch-lights... similar to this image
I will be using THHN inside conduit from panel to first switch, and from first switch to second switch. My question is do I need to splice the neutral in the first switch box, or can I just make it a continuous run from panel - through first switch box - spliced to NM-B in second switch box?
Alternatively, is it good practice to splice here (provides future capability) or bad practice (unnecessary point of failure)?
electrical wiring
add a comment |
I am going to install 4 LED downlights on a 3-way switch. My plan is to do panel-switch-switch-lights... similar to this image
I will be using THHN inside conduit from panel to first switch, and from first switch to second switch. My question is do I need to splice the neutral in the first switch box, or can I just make it a continuous run from panel - through first switch box - spliced to NM-B in second switch box?
Alternatively, is it good practice to splice here (provides future capability) or bad practice (unnecessary point of failure)?
electrical wiring
2
Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34
add a comment |
I am going to install 4 LED downlights on a 3-way switch. My plan is to do panel-switch-switch-lights... similar to this image
I will be using THHN inside conduit from panel to first switch, and from first switch to second switch. My question is do I need to splice the neutral in the first switch box, or can I just make it a continuous run from panel - through first switch box - spliced to NM-B in second switch box?
Alternatively, is it good practice to splice here (provides future capability) or bad practice (unnecessary point of failure)?
electrical wiring
I am going to install 4 LED downlights on a 3-way switch. My plan is to do panel-switch-switch-lights... similar to this image
I will be using THHN inside conduit from panel to first switch, and from first switch to second switch. My question is do I need to splice the neutral in the first switch box, or can I just make it a continuous run from panel - through first switch box - spliced to NM-B in second switch box?
Alternatively, is it good practice to splice here (provides future capability) or bad practice (unnecessary point of failure)?
electrical wiring
electrical wiring
asked May 19 at 0:20
dabidabi
156112
156112
2
Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34
add a comment |
2
Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34
2
2
Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34
Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
To me the choices are equally acceptable. I don't see either as a good or bad practice. As long as a good splice is made it will last indefinitely. And sometimes I like less clutter in the box.
add a comment |
If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem. A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.
It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice. You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.
add a comment |
I'd leave loops of everything except the travelers in each box, especially if the incoming was at the light, where power would have to be brought through all of them anyway. That's assuming there isn't a junction box in the middle somewhere that might someday be a 4-way; then you'd need the travelers too.
Fishing a fifth wire down an EMT with four wires in it already can be tough. For total future-proofing, run and loop an extra live wire as well. Even if the client doesn't ask for it, when running a lighting circuit I run it as half of a MWBC. The other half is for me when I come back to do something else and I need power from there.
Those loops and the, easy to do now, extra wire can save the next guy a whole lot of work.
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
To me the choices are equally acceptable. I don't see either as a good or bad practice. As long as a good splice is made it will last indefinitely. And sometimes I like less clutter in the box.
add a comment |
To me the choices are equally acceptable. I don't see either as a good or bad practice. As long as a good splice is made it will last indefinitely. And sometimes I like less clutter in the box.
add a comment |
To me the choices are equally acceptable. I don't see either as a good or bad practice. As long as a good splice is made it will last indefinitely. And sometimes I like less clutter in the box.
To me the choices are equally acceptable. I don't see either as a good or bad practice. As long as a good splice is made it will last indefinitely. And sometimes I like less clutter in the box.
answered May 19 at 2:46
Paul LoganPaul Logan
5,9721514
5,9721514
add a comment |
add a comment |
If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem. A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.
It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice. You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.
add a comment |
If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem. A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.
It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice. You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.
add a comment |
If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem. A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.
It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice. You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.
If your splices are failing, that is a technique problem. A competent wire-nut splice should be reliable.
It doesn't matter legally, you can either leave zero spare length, 18" of spare length so you can splice to it if needed, or actually fit a splice. You always have the option of running a replacement wire if needed since it's conduit -- that's why it's legal.
answered May 19 at 4:26
HarperHarper
81k555162
81k555162
add a comment |
add a comment |
I'd leave loops of everything except the travelers in each box, especially if the incoming was at the light, where power would have to be brought through all of them anyway. That's assuming there isn't a junction box in the middle somewhere that might someday be a 4-way; then you'd need the travelers too.
Fishing a fifth wire down an EMT with four wires in it already can be tough. For total future-proofing, run and loop an extra live wire as well. Even if the client doesn't ask for it, when running a lighting circuit I run it as half of a MWBC. The other half is for me when I come back to do something else and I need power from there.
Those loops and the, easy to do now, extra wire can save the next guy a whole lot of work.
add a comment |
I'd leave loops of everything except the travelers in each box, especially if the incoming was at the light, where power would have to be brought through all of them anyway. That's assuming there isn't a junction box in the middle somewhere that might someday be a 4-way; then you'd need the travelers too.
Fishing a fifth wire down an EMT with four wires in it already can be tough. For total future-proofing, run and loop an extra live wire as well. Even if the client doesn't ask for it, when running a lighting circuit I run it as half of a MWBC. The other half is for me when I come back to do something else and I need power from there.
Those loops and the, easy to do now, extra wire can save the next guy a whole lot of work.
add a comment |
I'd leave loops of everything except the travelers in each box, especially if the incoming was at the light, where power would have to be brought through all of them anyway. That's assuming there isn't a junction box in the middle somewhere that might someday be a 4-way; then you'd need the travelers too.
Fishing a fifth wire down an EMT with four wires in it already can be tough. For total future-proofing, run and loop an extra live wire as well. Even if the client doesn't ask for it, when running a lighting circuit I run it as half of a MWBC. The other half is for me when I come back to do something else and I need power from there.
Those loops and the, easy to do now, extra wire can save the next guy a whole lot of work.
I'd leave loops of everything except the travelers in each box, especially if the incoming was at the light, where power would have to be brought through all of them anyway. That's assuming there isn't a junction box in the middle somewhere that might someday be a 4-way; then you'd need the travelers too.
Fishing a fifth wire down an EMT with four wires in it already can be tough. For total future-proofing, run and loop an extra live wire as well. Even if the client doesn't ask for it, when running a lighting circuit I run it as half of a MWBC. The other half is for me when I come back to do something else and I need power from there.
Those loops and the, easy to do now, extra wire can save the next guy a whole lot of work.
answered May 19 at 14:40
MazuraMazura
10.5k11248
10.5k11248
add a comment |
add a comment |
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Do be sure to leave enough wire in each box that if someone changed to a switch that needed a neutral (i.e. a smartswitch, typically) in the future, they could cut the neutral and splice in a pigtail for that.
– Ecnerwal
May 19 at 3:34